So it’s September and I’m struggling with the idea that the summer is over and want to do more backpacking before the season is really over for me. Also I really wanted to take pics of sunset/sunrise during a cloud inversion which is more likely to happen now that the temperatures drop.
Golden Ears was on my list for a while, the view from the ridge looked amazing in the photos. I spent the summer camping near lakes (can’t complain whatsoever though) and wanted to camp on an alpine ridge for a change.
So yeah, decided to go camping at Golden Ears. Little did I know of what’s to expect 😅 and that sounds dumb because like how you head on a trail without checking what it looks like?!
But no, I checked the trail stats and read the reviews, I just got a wrong impression. I read about the scramble parts and I thought to myself well okay I can manage a couple scrambles. And maybe they’re talking about the summit part which was optional to me (there’s a great view from the camp and the summit is additional 300m elevation so I thought it isn’t mandatory for me). Also I read backpackers get there in 4 hours, which is similar to my time going up Wedgemount lake.
So I concluded it’s probably similar to Wedgemount lake trail and I’ll be fine. But I wasn’t fine 😅 And it wasn’t anything like Wedgemount lake! Way, way worse. I mean, I came back in one piece and without injuries (my knees were in pain, but they seem to have recovered now). If I knew what this trail looks like I wouldn’t go.
I’ll refer to waypoints and distance in the AllTrails map.
So if you still want to go camping there, at least now you have your expectations for the trail set so low that you’ll go and be like “she’s talking BS, it’s not that bad” 😂🤣. Well I hope so. Cause a trail unexpectedly turning crappy when you’re already 7k in is the worst.
Couple words about the camp - it has like 7 quite small tent platforms. I went Sunday, that night there were just 5 more people camping, and it’s the end of the season. I heard there are bunches of people on weekends.
I wouldn’t say there are good spots to set up a tent otherwise - the ridge is narrow and rocky. But apparently dozens of people camp there in parallel, and I haven’t really explored around so might be more good spots.
I also saw some more campsites marked on the map, if you choose to display “Waypoints” in AllTrails map - well, the problem is, aside of you should be camping in the designated camp only, as per the park rules, there’s no water there. There are some puddles along the way, and you can drink from a puddle. But I don’t think they are permanent.
So either you bring a lot of extra water with you (not recommended 😬) or you hike to the stream at the camp (well, if you’re really fit and don’t feel like dying after all the scrambles).
Couple words about the toilet. So there is a toilet in the hut, it’s the bio diversion one where you have to push the paddle 5 times. These tend to be the stinkiest, but apparently the best for nature, as I read at the Joffre lakes toilet 😅 yes, they have a whole lecture there - when the poop and the pee are separated, they both get processed by the nature pretty efficiently, almost without human intervention. So I’m all into diversion toilets, really. Also, this one didn’t really stink outside of the toilet which is a miracle 🙄
But anyway, they kinda forgot to put a toilet seat on it 🤔 and I know, it’s not that the toilet seats are clean in these places, but at least if you really need to, you can wipe it and then put some TP on it. Idk about you, but I can’t hover-poop like this, especially not after a hike like this 🙄 my legs are about to give up on me already 🤷🏽♀️
Also, there are no private place in the area. It’s surrounded by cliffs. And you can’t dig a cathole because it’s rocky all around. So if someone poops behind a rock, they will probably leave the toilet paper there as well 🤦🏽♀️ and it’s overall gross. So I suggest at least getting some doggy bags even though you have no dog and pack out all the toilet paper. I always have a few with me in case I have to go in the bush.
Of course, the toilet and the hut are full of garbage… I thought about taking some back with me, but a - I didn’t have a large garbage bag and b - I couldn’t imagine of carrying one gram more than I have to on this hellish hike back…
By the way - please shut the emergency shelter and the toilet so at least it won’t attract wildlife. The emergency shelter is really tricky to shut though.
Speaking of the emergency shelter - it’s the only place to store food in. You better do - potential bears aside, I saw a mouse coming to check out my food bag after the dark fell and before I stashed it in the hut.
The views were beautiful though. The fog kinda cleared and there was a cloud inversion, I set up a camp, took a bunch of pics, slept fairly well, woke up at 4:30 as per usual cause I had to pee 🙄 was afraid to get out of the tent until like 6 🙈 always the same mistake. I have to learn.
Took I think my most epic time-lapse video during that sunrise with the clouds below me filled with the pinkish light (see it on my Instagram highlights). Took more pics. Ate breakfast, chilled for a bit, almost forcing myself cause I had the urge to pick up the camera and go shoot the mountains peaking above the clouds.
So I didn’t go shoot and then 30 mins later the fog has filled the ridge and wouldn’t go away. So after getting sick of waiting I packed and left. In the fog. Which is not ideal, but the visibility was good enough to make the first 50m scramble part.
And down there, on the lower ridge, it wasn’t foggy and the Pitt lake side was almost clear with a really beautiful view of the lake, so I stopped to take another bunch of pics.
And then - the hellish way down. The last 5 km were the longest, oooh I was so ready to get done with this trail 😂
I have mentioned an umbrella - so yeah, I was hiking with an umbrella on the way up 😂☔️
I had this idea for a while now. I saw somebody hiking with an umbrella on Berg lake trail I think, though it wasn’t attached to the backpack.
Anyhow, the problem is that I get hot when hiking, especially up. If I wear a rain shell I sweat and it gets wet from the inside, so what’s the point. If I hike with a t-shirt, I get soaked, not fun - when I stop, I get cold quickly.
So I figured why not try and attach an umbrella to my backpack so it keeps me dry, at least partially. It was a last-last-minute decision, I didn’t have time to try this while at home, but had an umbrella in my car. So when I got to the trail I decided to try attaching it. I think people including the rangers on the parking lot were secretly laughing at me. But anyway, I attached it with a couple carabiners and started hiking. It wouldn’t stay in place, of course, so I had to do another stop and find a third carabiner and it has finally worked.
It wasn’t ideal, as I would like it to be a bit higher and a bit less tilted back, but hey - it gave me the desired protection! It was raining I think until I passed The Most Crappy Section, so was worth it. It even served me exceptionally well when I stopped for a lunch at the Alder flats - I just sat leaning on my backpack and beneath the umbrella! It was raining and I was dry!
Shall we start a new fashion? 😂
So a few tips/things to consider for umbrella-hiking:
For me - hiking with an umbrella is going to be a thing now!
Will share a couple things I thought would help me next time 🙄:
Overall… I don’t regret doing this trail. I ticked it off from my list and it does feel good. Was it worth it… mmm tough question. It’s easy to speak sitting at the comfort of my home. But I would think many times before doing it again 😅 And it’s not a trail I would automatically recommend to someone without knowing their fitness level.
Have you done this one? What you think of it, let me know 😂 maybe I’m just spoiled.
Safe travels and pleeeease leave no trace!
Cheers,
Oless
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